We arrived in Beijing on the 28th of December and I was hit smack in the face with the winter chill I had forgotten existed outside of Hong Kong. Luckily we were met quickly by a man who transported us via a rundown SUV to our hostel in a charming hutong (alleyway). As he navigated us through the maze of speeding and swerving cars that seem to ignore any driving rules I had once learned in Canada, we drove by the romantic red and golden Chinese lanterns hanging in front of restaurants and stores. Thirty minutes later we were dropped off at the doorstep of the Beijing Downtown Backpackers Hostel which went above and beyond my expectations of a hostel. It was extremely clean, had helpful and friendly staff and hosted many interesting people from all over the world. Definitely a place I’d recommend to anyone looking for a cheap place to stay!
Day 1: December 29th
Despite how tired we all were from traveling the day before, we rolled out of bed early and were in a minibus by 8:30am on our way to hike the Great Wall of China! The drive took three hours and stopped off half-way for a bathroom break. As I anticipated in China, I was expected to squat in -3 degree weather in a little bathroom at a gas station. And it wasn’t that bad!
The hike of the wall was unbelievable! We were dropped off at an area near the wall and had to hike up to reach the first watch tower at the Jinshanling part of the wall. We then hiked 22 watch towers, taking pictures along the way. The views were spectacular, but as the old adage goes “a picture is worth a thousand words” so see for yourself. Then again, pictures really don’t do it justice.
Venturing along the wall we met a few locals who apparently stand up there in the cold all day long trying to sell tourists souvenirs. Some of them in fact had some pretty talented tactics as well. Two women met us early on in our trek and walked with us for quite awhile. They would do their best to speak English to us and tell us bits about the wall while helping out at the more difficult areas. Of course when it got REALLY difficult their true intentions were revealed and we realized they had some souvenirs to sell. My parents who had come to quite like the two bought a few sets of chopsticks off of them for 50 yuan and a book about the wall for another 50!
Later on that night we went for dinner at a Schezuan restaurant. Spicy, spicy, spicy! We ordered a few things but the most memorable was the lamb and hot chilies dish that we all shared. It was food to set your mouth on fire! During dinner we also realized that my dad had been teaching himself Mandarin! For anyone who knows my dad, you know that he is the least likely person to ever travel in China. Shockingly enough though, he proved himself to be a very valuable asset in Beijing!
To finish off the day we headed to a massage place down the alley from our hostel. The four of us just sat back, soaked our feet for a bit and let them get to work. Our feet were all mangled though from the hike early that day and both my parents were actually in a lot of pain during it. The masseuses got quite a laugh from my dad who would scream out words in Mandarin while they attempted to get all the kinks out of his calves.
Day 2: December 30th
Tiananmen Square was first on our list and then of course the Forbidden City. The weather was absolutely frigid while we walked through. We had headsets on which sensed where you were standing in the City and would then give the appropriate narration for whatever you were looking at. My favourite building inside the Forbidden City was the Chuxiugong which was originally known as Shouchanggong (Palace of Longevity). The imperial concubines and empresses lived here. You could see inside the windows and view the beds which were scattered throughout. I also learned that in order to protect the Emperor from passing over the throne to a successor who in fact was not his own son, they would cripple the concubines feet allowing them only to walk with assistance and then castrate any men who worked within the walls of the Forbidden City. Seems like a logical solution…
Because we were frozen solid after being out in the cold for a few hours, we headed indoors to the Silk Market. I swear I felt like I was meat being harassed by vultures! The most entertaining area of the Silk Market is the first floor which is full of fake bags and shoes. There is way more selection in the market in comparison to my experiences in Hong Kong but the vendors tend to jack the prices a heck of a lot higher than what I’m used to. We all had to fight to get the prices down about 80% before it was actually reasonable and at times we even found ourselves being tugged into stalls by the owners begging us to buy something. The jewelry floor was much more mundane however which was a relief. My mum and I both ended up buying a set of pearl earrings, bracelets and necklaces there. I have to say the most amusing scene to watch in the Silk Market was my dad. He became good friends with most of the stall owners, especially when he was able to discuss deals with them completely in Mandarin! (See! Quite the asset!)
Once we had gotten most of the chill out of our bodies, we headed back outside in search of the Night Market. This is an outdoor market which sells all sorts of “food” that most westerners would look at with disgust. Fancy cockroaches, snakes on a skewer, or larvae? Mmmm yummy! The one thing I DID want to try was a scorpion but I never did get around to it. Maybe somewhere else in Asia I’ll find that delicacy again and give it a whirl…
Day 3: December 31st
The day began with a chilly walk north through the hutongs towards the lake district. This area is beautiful but would probably be even prettier when the surrounding vegetation isn’t so grey and dead! You can tell that it’s a big party scene there at night since almost every store front is either a restaurant or bar! The lake had frozen over while we were there so a few people were skating around on the ice. We were able to watch them from the second level of the restaurant we sat down at. The menu was quite interesting and included cooked bullfrog, pigs feet and a baby turtle! We weren’t that adventurous with our choices and stuck to dishes which included pork, chicken and vegetables, but it was delicious! After lunch and a bit more meandering around the area, we headed back to the hostel to get ourselves ready for New Years Eve!
New Years Eve was quite an event. We set-off in a hunt for a cab at the end of the long hutong we were staying on. After being turned down by one cab driver, we finally found someone willing to take us to our destination. He drove us about five minutes and then motioned that we had arrived. Nothing added up so we questioned him. He was a very nice man so he picked up his phone and called the number of the place we were in search of. Once he had received the proper directions he proceeded to laugh hysterically. We just sat there and laughed nervously as he turned the car around and drove us right back to where we had started. Turns out we never needed a cab in the first place. So then we walked all through the hutongs, up and down, trying to find out where we were supposed to be. At last we found it through a tiny, dark doorway which led to a maze of other little alleys and into a beautifully lit kitchen and dining area!
My mum had found us a cooking school called the Black Sesame in Beijing and they offered a special nine course class and meal for New Years Eve. It was mind-blowing! Everything that came out of the kitchen was unbelievable and the booze was running free all night long! Naturally we had our way with the champagne, beer and wine and once we had had our fill, we moved onto our next location –the bar! We sat down and ordered four cocktails but were soon asked to join another group of strangers from different parts of Europe who were all traveling in Beijing as well. At midnight we all downed shots of Absinthe. Deadly! Great party though for sure, it was just extremely painful to wake up at seven AM the next day to catch our flight back to Hong Kong. Having four members of your family all hung over on planes for the entire day is not exactly the way I like to spend my New Years Day, but we made it just the same.
All in all Beijing was a great trip! I’m happy though to be home in Hong Kong again where the weather is a bit more agreeable!
Wishing you all a very Happy New Year!!
Bailey

New Years Eve

New Years Eve Dinner

The Night Market

The Great Wall

Downtown Backpacker's Hostel